Smoked Chicken & Grilled Corn

•July 13, 2009 • 1 Comment

Browning

Grilled Corn

Roasted chicken has to be one of my favorite foods. It is so simple and so difficult to screw up yet so few seem to cook it. Most, including myself, have succumbed to the rotisserie chicken available at almost every grocery store.  Try it at home once and you’ll find it hard to settle for anything else. As often as possible I use the grill so that I can add smoke.

BeerChicken_Mise

Some seem to think that the beer can method is a bit redneck, but it really produces a superior chicken every time. The idea here is that you are steaming the chicken from the inside while roasting in with dry heat from the outside. The result is an incredibly crispy skin, with incredibly moist and tender meat. I like it so much that I actually bought a gee-gaw (so against my kitchen gadget aversion) to hold the can and violated chicken securely upright.

Typically, I’ll fill the can with whatever aromatics I can find laying around the kitchen – garlic cloves, slices of onion, dried chilies, basil, thyme, lime, etc. – then pour beer about 2/3 of the way up the can. The chicken is washed, dried and sprinkled with kosher salt & ground pepper, inside and out. The chicken is unceremoniously mounted on the can and your prep is almost done. The second half of the prep is just as important – the fire.

Coals

Again, many schools of thought, but I only use lump charcoal – it burns hotter and cleaner, and I think brings a better taste to the food.

Mesquite

While the coals are starting, you should soak any wood you want to use for smoking in water. Lately, I’ve been using mesquite.

Indirect

The secret to roasting chicken on the grill is to use indirect heat – I build my fire on opposite ends of the grill and add a drip pan in the middle – the chicken will cook above this. I’ll also add enough unlit coals to keep me from have to screw around tending the fire. The above set up will easily burn for 1.5 – 2 hours (more than enough time).

Grill

The chick is placed on the gril (over the drip pan) and the smoking wood added – I place it on the grill to keep it from catching flame. Close the lid and check every now and then to ensure it’s not burning. If your fire is uneven, or if you can only build a fire to one side of your grill, you’ll need to ocassionally rotate the chicken to allow for even cooking. Depending on the size of the chicken and fire, cooking will take anywhere from 45 minutes up. I suggest using an electronic probe thermometer. You can also test by twisting a drumstick – if it moves easily, your chicken is done. Let it rest for 10-15 minutes before cutting to allow the juices to settle in the meat.

Thai Fried Chicken

•July 9, 2009 • 3 Comments

Thai Fried Chicken

Regular readers will know that I’m not much for the Thai food that we have available in Atlanta. This is nothing new with me. I never looked forward to visiting Thailand, mostly because I really didn’t care for what I had experienced as “Thai food”.  Little did I know how far off my assumptions were, and what an incredible country Thailand is (admittedly, not just because of the food).

One of my more memorable experiences was walking to the alley next to my hotel in Nakon Ratchisima one evening and buying fried chicken and fish and mangosteens from the improvised stalls. The woman selling the chicken was pretty frustrated that I wouldn’t buy a whole fried chicken. Little did I know – I should have gone all John Belushi on her and ordered two whole fried chickens.

So perhaps my ongoing bitterness (see here…) with Atlanta’s Thai food scene has been exacerbated by my unsatisfied craving for this type of simple, everyday cooking.

Now, thanks to Chez Pim, I’m sitting here at 10:30PM on the verge of chicken poisoning and seriously considering investing in a deep fryer. And I’m thinking it’s time for another piece.

Kokai Thai Bistro

•June 22, 2009 • 6 Comments

Kokai

I’d heard a lot about Kokai Thai Bistro. Lots of people have blogged about it (Chow Down Atlanta, Blissful Glutton, Food Near Snellville, AccessAtlanta) , some have even gushed about it. When I first saw it open, I had my typical thought – “another mediocre Thai restaurant, that everyone will say is the best Thai they’ve ever had…” – and I chose to ignore it. Then I began hearing mention that it was “authentic” Thai street food and it brought back memories of eating kanom krok (grilled coconut rice cakes) and fried chicken underneath the Taksin bridge – could this really be coming to Atlanta?

Vegetable Spring Rolls

So HX and I decided to give it a try and I have my answer. It is a resounding NO. Maybe my palate is screwed up, maybe my experience in Thailand was freakishly skewed and unusual, maybe I was in the wrong country – but Kokai struck me as: “another mediocre Thai restaurant, that everyone will say is the best Thai they’ve ever had…”. I don’t often do this here, but be forewarned – I’m panning this restaurant. Fortunately, I’m feeling a bit lazy and I wasn’t pissed off by this place – just disappointed – so I won’t be flying off the handle (I’m saving my vitriol for bigger things).

Yen Ta Four

Yen Ta Four

No flashbacks of great memories, no flood of relaxation that you get when you put wonderful food in your mouth, no excitement – just bland, mediocre food – no depth of flavor – nothing. Now admittedly, the presentation was beautiful (yeah, yeah – you eat with your eyes as well as with your mouth – whatever), but that only seemed to heighten the disappointment. The Yen Ta Four (mixed seafood noodle soup) did have a nice mix of large prawns, fish, squid balls, fried tofu, vegetables and wide rice noodles.  Unfortunately, the seafood was overcooked and rubbery (seriously – doesn’t everyone know by now that shrimp can only take a few minutes in hot broth before they are shot? These seemed like they were in the bath from the beginning). The hot pink broth was reminiscent of watered down sweet and sour sauce.

Pad Ka Pao

Pad Ka Pao

Pad Ka Pao (fried chicken with basil) was bland and reminded me of the “pre-mixed” stir fry kits you find in the freezer section at the grocery. Again with the overcooked, rubbery proteins….

Surprisingly, the vegetable spring rolls (HX insisted – typically I avoid these), were surprisingly good – crispy, light and full of flavor.

As always, I welcome counter opinions (though they won’t change mine…). Tell me that I’m wrong – convince me to give it another try. I’d love to find good, authentic Thai street food in Atlanta.

Kokai Thai Bistro
5495 Jimmy Carter Blvd
Norcross, GA 30093-1519

www.kokaithaibistro.com

Cheap DIY: Vietnamese Cà phê sữa đá

•June 10, 2009 • 3 Comments

If you’re already a fan, then you already know – Vietnamese coffee is some of the best in the world. If you aren’t familiar with Vietnamese coffee (cà phê) and you love coffee, this is something you must try.

Cà phê sữa đá
There are a couple of problems, however. Vietnamese coffee is typically only offered in, well, Vietnamese restaurants. If you don’t happen to be convenient to your favorite pho shop when the jones kicks in, you’re pretty much out of luck. Add to that the average $3 price tag and this gets to be a pricey habit.

So I’ll try to take the mystery out of making cà phê yourself – it’s not hard and you’ll save big bucks in the process. There are two drinks I’m going to focus on: cà phê sữa nóng (warm coffee with milk) and cà phê sữa đá (iced coffee with milk). They’re the same thing, one just has – ice…

All you need

The setup requires a few special, but easy to find and inexpensive, items to get started. I picked up everything at the Buford Highway Farmer’s Market. I spent less than $14 and estimate the average cost per cup to be about $0.20!

Trung Nguyen coffee – You can use any coffee with a French press grind, but you’ll be missing out. In addition to Arabica and Robusta beans, Trung Nguyen includes Chari and Catimor as well. The beans are roasted in butter oil and a small amount of cocoa is added.

Cà phê phin – this is the simple drip filter used in Vietnamese restaurants. Again, you could use a French press, or even a drip coffee maker.

Ca Phe Phin

Sweetened condensed milk – if you can find Longevity brand, it’s traditional. Otherwise, any sweetened condensed milk will do – be sure there are no fillers, though (read the label). (Note: you don’t need to refrigerate after opening – this is what has encouraged its use in the hot climate of SE Asia).

Now that you have everything you need, the rest is simple.

  1. Place 1 tablespoon of coffee in the bottom of the phin. Make sure that it’s evenly distributed and place the filter insert on top (some of these screw down, others just sit on top of the coffee).
    Grounds
  2. Add 1-2 tablespoons of sweetened condensed milk to the cup (not the phin!).
  3. Place the phin on top of a cup and add a little hot water to swell the grinds. Wait about 15 seconds, then fill to the top.
    Water
  4. The water should drip through in about 5 minutes.
  5. Stir together the coffee and milk.

Brew

Stir

Drink it straight and you have cà phê sữa nóng. Pour over ice and you’ve got cà phê sữa đá.

Ice

Mix

You’ve just saved $2.80!

Mesquite Smoked Pork Spareribs

•June 8, 2009 • 1 Comment

Smoke

I’ve blathered on about being from a barbecue family before, and I’ve been asked when I was going to get around to writing some barbecue posts. Well, finally I have my smoker back at out of storage, and today was my first cook in over two years.

Smoker

Since I’m a bit rusty, I decided to keep it simple (in case things went horribly awry – don’t want to waste too much meat) - 1 rack of pork spareribs and 1 chicken. (A moderate amount of pre-smoke anxiety made me forget to take prep photos – I’ll add some after my next cook).

Nothing special about the ribs – standard 2 1/2 down – about a 4.5lb rack, trimmed, membrane removed.

I’ll go into more detail about rib prep in subsequent posts, but I agree with most that removing the membrane (the pleura) is critical. There’s a lot of debate on whether or not it affects seasoning, etc., but it ultimately comes down to the fact that it contributes nothing to the eating, and it’s so simple to remove that it there’s no reason not to…

The ribs were trimmed and given a dry rub the day before. Growing up, we never used rubs, but I’ve been experimenting with them on and off. I’ve been using a basic rub that is pretty easy to tweak, primarily brown sugar, paprika, chili powder, onion and garlic powder, white and black pepper, salt and cayenne. I’ll post the recipe soon – I don’t mind sharing that. The family sauce is off limits though… The chicken was simply rubbed, inside and out, with salt and black pepper.

Fuel choice is pretty important as well. I’ve done full cooks on wood only, but temperature control becomes extremely difficult in a (relatively) small smoker. Natural lump charcoal is the key (no briquettes) with the occasional addition of unburned wood for flavor (I used mesquite for this batch).

Smoke Ring

End result is that after a 7 hour cook (5 hours for the ribs – I put the chicken on late) – perfect. Best ribs I’ve had since I took a break 2 years ago, if I do say so myself. Oh, and the chicken was pretty amazing too.

Smoked Chicken

Geek stuff follows:

Remember, barbecuing is not grilling. Barbecuing is slow cooking with relatively low temperatures, in the 225 – 250 degree range. As you can see from my cook log (yes, there does seem to be something a bit wrong with me – but that’s not the point) the key is to maintain that range. Dips in the temperature graph are from loading product into or removing product from the cooking chamber or just screwing around with the door open too long (if you’re lookin’, you’re not cookin’). Spikes are associated with loading fuel into the firebox.

Temp_Graph

Cooking with Dog

•June 1, 2009 • 2 Comments

Via my friend M. comes Cooking with Dog – a Japanese cooking show, hosted by a dog. More precisely, a poodle, with a coif that for some reason reminds me of Graham Kerr (whose hair actually more closely resembles Ted Koppel – just work with me).

Cooking with Dog

Normally, I’m pretty dismissive of this type of thing, but this is actually really well done. The lessons are concise and to the point, making the show watchable and the recipes easy to follow. They run the gamut from katsudon to takoyaki – there’s even a recipe for kudzu mochi.

If you’ve been intimidated by Japanese cooking, it’s worth a look.

Cooking with Dog

Post Number 100

•June 1, 2009 • Leave a Comment

wøøt! Now that this is out of the way…..

Beer & Ethnic Food

•April 4, 2009 • 5 Comments

Stouts & Porters

Breckenridge Vanilla Porter, Victory Storm King Imperial Stout, Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout

I realized the other day, that I really don’t use my wine cooler for anything other than beer any more… There’s a bottle of champagne in there (Veuve Cliquot), but that’s it. Anyway, if you were curious as to what potables an ethnic food scout keeps on hand, I’d feel worried that you might have as few interesting things to do as I. But above is a sampling of staples at the BuHi household.

Personally, I’m not a huge fan of beer with food – before and/or after, but rarely with (occasionally a Tsing-Tao or Kirin with sushi). I’m sure there are many opinions to the contrary, but my penchant for high-gravity beers that are close to being a food in their own right, limits the pairing opportunities.

One postive aspect of keeping beers that many consider “drink proof” is that everyone always knows to bring their own when they come over…

What do you keep in your wine (beer) cooler? And what foods do you pair it with (especially ethnic)? Comment away…

Star Provisions To Go: $10 Sandwiches?

•April 3, 2009 • 3 Comments

Braised Short Rib Sandwich

Some days, I guess you just need a $10 sandwich. And with it apparently being monsoon season in Atlanta, it seemed like one of those days. Braised short ribs (braised it what, I’ll need to find out – rich enough that it could have been butter and duck fat – but that would be confit… mmmm, short ribs confit – there’s an idea), with pickled onions and – horrors – cilantro. Why the cilantro, I have no idea (I won’t go into my issues with cilantro – well documented elsewhere). It was a gratuitous and pointless addition to a pretty damn good $10 sandwich.

Star Provisions To Go

Star Provisions To Go
1198 Howell Mill Road
Atlanta, GA 30318

Saigon Deli

•March 26, 2009 • Leave a Comment

Gà xào xả ớt

Gà xào xả ớt

A nasty, rainy day in Atlanta, and nothing seemed to be working out right. In a feeble attempt to lift my mood, I headed to Asian Square for lunch, intent on bahn mi at Quốc Hương. From the way my day was proceeding, I should have known in advance that it would be preternatural for me to fulfill my desire and actually eat at Quốc Hương. As such, order was in fact maintained in the universe and Quốc Hương was, in fact, closed for the day. Fortunately, Saigon Deli is directly across the parking lot. Saigon Deli is actually where I was first introduced to bahn mi (buy5, get one free!) and it really was time for me to return.

After being seated in the exceedingly yellow dining room (I always refer to Saigon Deli as “the yellow place” when I can’t remember the name) and reviewing the menu, the aforementioned nasty, rainy day came into play and bahn mi went out the window.

I’ve always been drawn to the gà xào xả ớt (chicken with chili and lemongrass) here. While there’s nothing really special about it, it just seems to be comforting to me – much more so than pho. This really is home cooking – a simple dish of chicken, onions, garlic, chilies and nước mắm (fish sauce), that has just enough spice to take the edge off. If you’re not fully attuned to fish sauce yet, it can be a bit – pungent – when it hits the table, but it quickly abates and somehow does that magical thing that fish sauce does – it becomes subtle.

Order is restored.

Saigon Deli

Saigon Deli
5150 Buford Hwy NE
Doraville, GA 30340